It was 9 am and we were outfitted with our ‘finest’ backpacking outfits washed the night before and still a little damp. We were looking clean but not fancy enough for a wedding. The sole of my right sandal has unglued all the way the night before so I was shoe-less. But that was a small worry given the fact that we had the first case of upset stomach in the family since the beginning of the trip. Raina was under the weather and I was worried she might toss her cookies on the bride’s dress.
Myo came to pick us up from the hotel. It was her niece’s wedding and she was generous to include us in the festivities. Myo was dressed in a glittering pink saari and was wearing a full on make up with long glue on eye-washes. At first I didn’t recognize her so I introduced myself as if we never met before…oh, well. We all piled in the car and off we went. The wedding was in the house of the groom’s grandfather. Right on the street in front of it was a succession of tents with tables in white table cloths and plastic chairs disguised with white covers.
We got there on time to see the groom arriving along with his parade. Girls dressed in traditional Thai clothes were carrying Khan Mahk: special trays prepared as a gift to the mother and father of the bride. The trays had assorted betel nut chew ingredients such as whole betel nut, tobacco, betel leaves, lime paste, along with flowers. There were also small silk woven bags of sesame seeds, mung bean, unpolished rice, all of which were to be sprinkled on money when bride and groom meet for the first time on their wedding day.
Here is the groom looking all spiffy in a white suit.
Guests were to go in the house through a huge heart made of roses and the grandma was sprinkling everyone with water for good luck.
Way back then a traditional Thai wedding ceremony would have a “Door Ceremony” where the groom would open the gates on route to the house of the bride. In order to open the gates as each gate the groom had to provide a gift. These gifts become larger the closer the groom gets to the house of the bride. Nowadays the doors are being replaced by girls holding onto a gold chain. At each part of the chain the person (normally the sisters of the bride) would ask if he is wealthy enough to care for their sister and family. Each time he would present them with an envelope of money. Each time he passes from one chain to the other, the audience would cheer. This somewhat reminds me of a Bulgarian weddings where money are involved on route to fetching the bride. I have vague childhood memories of money stuffed in bride’s shoes or strung in a necklace that is supposed to go around her neck as a decoration. No wonder I opted out of a wedding myself, haunted by those embarrassing money memories. This time though I fully enjoyed the show.
Eventually the groom made it to the bride and I caught a glimpse of her. She was looking stunning in her her wedding dress.
The rest of the ceremony was very sweet and informal. The family of the groom and the bride were sitting on opposite couches from each other and the young couple knelt and bowed in front of each of them to get their blessing. Then they exchanged the wedding rings. All of that was happening on a colorful Persian looking carpet and atmosphere was of a homey get together.
The groom’s sister gave a stack of money to the bride’s mother. Myo told me that every family decides what to do with the money but that her sister will give the cash to her daughter to start a business and open a restaurant.
The groom’s family is Chinese Thai so the Chinese wedding ceremony was next. It was beautiful and serene. The bride and the groom burned sticks of incense, bowed and set prayer papers on fire extinguishing the flame with six tiny cups of whiskey.
Then there was present opening and the bride and groom served tea to their elder relatives.
Sweets and lunch feast next. The barbecued pig was rubbed in cinnamon and honey and tasted like candy. I tried a piece. Yum.
I loved every moment of this day. For a morning I didn’t feel as if just passing by a place but I felt like I belonged. This was of course because Myo’s open heart and amazing hospitality. So glad she is coming with us to Bangkok and we will spend a few more days in her radiant company.
